Summer adventures in the Black Forest Highlands

When I pictured a summer trip to the Black Forest Highlands, hiking was the obvious draw. What I hadn't considered was just how much else there is to do outside in this mountainous corner of southwest Germany. The region is packed with lakes, forest trails, bike routes, and waterfalls, with plenty of mountain huts and small towns to stop at along the way.

I spent a few active days exploring by paddleboard, rowboat, e-bike, gondola, and mostly my own two feet. Here are some of the best ways to experience the Black Forest Highlands in summer.

Get in the water

Summer here gets hot, but luckily there’s plenty of water to cool off in. The region’s three main lakes all have their own appeal. Schluchsee is the largest lake in the Black Forest and a dream for swimming, with warm, clear water, little beaches around the shore, and views of the forested hills to take in while exploring by SUP. Titisee is busier, but taking out one of its traditional wooden rowboats was a fun way to slow down and enjoy being on the water. And smaller Windgfällweiher is quieter, with no motorized boats and a lakeside path that makes for a nice loop by bike. 

I was always thankful to have a swimsuit on hand, which is a good rule of thumb around here. Even if swimming isn’t in the day’s plans, there are plenty of opportunities for an impromptu dip.

Hit the trails

There’s no shortage of hiking in the Black Forest Highlands, from full-day adventures to shorter walks around waterfalls. One of my favorites was the Geißenpfad, an ~11km trail winding through forest, meadows, and grazing land on the way to the Menzenschwand falls. I spent a good part of the hike picking wild raspberries and blackberries, with cowbells and grazing goats in the background. 

Feldberg, the Black Forest’s highest peak and largest ski area, also has great hiking. I chose a route that looped around Feldsee, a small glacial lake tucked into protected forest below the mountain. There are plenty of different trails to choose from, and you have the option to hop on the gondola for a lift up or down.

Another highlight is Todtnau Waterfalls, with trails running through the forest around the falls. I’d already had a full day of hiking by the time I got there, so I took the alternative route: across the Blackforestline suspension bridge, which is an adventure in itself, 120m above ground, with views of the falls and valley below.

Explore on two wheels

Cycling is another great way to cover some ground, and you can find loads of picturesque routes through the forest, around the lakes, and in the surrounding hills. E-bikes are popular and rentals are easy to come by. 

I only managed to squeeze in one ride, an evening cycle from Schluchsee to Windgfällweiher. It included a few accidental detours and some unplanned off-roading, but I eventually made it to the lake and looped around before heading back. A lesson learned: download your route beforehand, even if it's as straightforward as can be (it was). Phone reception can be spotty out here. 

Add a little culture

For a break between outdoor adventures, stop at St. Blasien. Its cathedral is the main draw, with an enormous dome and a striking, nearly all-white interior. It’s also a significant concert venue, hosting an international summer series that brings musicians and audiences to this small Black Forest town.

Clockmaking has also been part of life in the Black Forest Highlands for centuries, and you’ll still see cuckoo clocks everywhere. If you want to dig a little deeper, explore the region’s clockmaking heritage at museums and workshops, or visit the cuckoo clock in Schonach that once held the title of world’s largest.

The Black Forest Highlands towns themselves are also worth leaving some time for. Schluchsee makes a handy base for easy access to the lake and surrounding trails, while Titisee has a livelier resort feel. Visits to smaller towns like St. Blasien and Todtnau are easy to work into a day of hiking or sightseeing.

Eat accordingly

I definitely worked up an appetite with all that activity, and eating well comes easily around here. I worked my way through local flavors like Black Forest trout, crispy schnitzel, sweet trailside berries, and, obviously, Black Forest cake, with cold drinks and snacks at mountain huts providing some welcome fuel along the trails. Beyond the regional specialties, I also had some great Italian food along the way, which is well represented in Baden-Württemberg’s food scene. And after a long day of hiking, sometimes a massive pizza is simply necessary.

A few days in the Black Forest Highlands gave me plenty of reasons to come back — more trails to hike and bike, more time on the water, and, of course, more cake to sample.

Getting there and around

The Black Forest Highlands are well-connected by train and bus. I traveled by train from Amsterdam to Freiburg, then picked up a rental car for the rest of the trip. Having a car makes it easy to combine lakes, trails, and towns in the same day, while much of the exploring itself can be done on foot, by bike, or on the water.

Cover image: Umomos/Shutterstock